3/1001 - Yemen #1 - Mainland Hadhramaut

Mainland Yemen - Hadhramaut - حضرموت

My dream came true!!

After 8 years of waiting, I finally made it to Yemen! Yemen was number one of my travel bucket list since 8 years and finally it became reality!! I felt like a little child just before Christmas, full of anticipation and joy when I was finally sitting in the plane on the way to Aden! 

During my studies in Oman in 2015 I heard so many incredible stories about Yemen, that it entered and never left my heart since then and it was so surreal making my first steps in Yemeni ground! I'm so delighted to share this unique and very special experience with you!

I know, when you follow the media, you will exclusively hear about war and famine. If you read a bit more, you will come across the names of Saudi Arabia, UAE and Iran as important actors on the battlefield. If you put a bit more effort into research, then you will read about UNESCO world heritage sites, about old kingdoms, rich trading routes, green valleys, endless beaches, impressive mountain castles, the origins of Arabic culture, history (Garden Eden relates to the city of Aden) and coffee (Mokka). Let's first untangle this mystery a bit, before crossing the borders to Yemen!

What is this war?

First of all, what does "war" mean in case of Yemen? I can assure you, it does not mean that 520.000 km² of land and 30 mln people are constantly bombing and shooting each other!!! Indeed, there were bombings, mostly with Saudi Arabia, between 2010 and 2018 and some AlQaeda presence until 2021. But since then, the "war" manifests itself mostly in political and economic dimensions. As I heard from various sources, actual fights with weapons occur only very little on a very very regional scope in the north. You will only find information on this in the local newspaper from the respective region, due to its low importance and impact on the whole situation.

It's hard to find accurate, reliable and up to date information, but this graphic is the closest to what I heard these days from locals.

The much more important factor in this war is the political dimension with its economic effects. Currently the country is divided between three powers: the North under Houthi control backed by Iran, the South supported by UAE and the official government on the whole country, sponsored by Saudi Arabia. This is not very surprising, since Yemen was historically divided into two separate countries: North Yemen and South Yemen, before the reunion in 1999. In addition, from it's tribal structure it is comparable with Afghanistan - tribes play an important role in organizing and controlling the region's, while the land is in some parts inaccessible and hence hard to reach and control by a central power. Considering Yemen was relatively wealthy, save and stable during the time of reunion and before, how did the current chaos get initiated?

You may remember the Arab spring in 2008. Also in Yemen, mainly the youngs were demanding new elections. This is considered the point where the government in power lost control on important tribes and religious groups, such as the Houthis in the North. The Houthis started rebelling and claiming the North under their control. As they are Shi'a, Iran (also Shi'a) felt obliged to support them. Now, having a foreign power involving into internal affairs, Yemeni government called their allies from the gulf cooperation council (GCC) to help Yemen defend against foreign powers. Saudi Arabia and UAE sent - very unselfish of course - military support. Well, and once you entered already a country with oil and important strategic geographical location for military and trade operations, and made yourself feel cozy and at home - why should you leave it again?? And in addition, there are these positive side effects of political instability in Middle East, that significantly help increasing oil prices and weapon trades and strengthen the power and importance of stable governments in the region. Tempting isn't it? So why putting efforts in peace agreements when instability brings so many advantages to the ones in power? 

Economy

In this chaos, all the controlling powers are mostly taking care of police and military forces, while civil areas, such as education, electricity, agriculture, trade are left aside. Recently, certain prices multiplied by 5! Petrol and food mainly filled by the scarcity effected by the Ukrainian war, prices for other goods amongst others due to limited possibilities to import and the resulting scarcity of goods plus impacted by the fact that - especially on Socotra island - foreign soldiers are comparably rich and have a higher purchasing power. They are ready to pay much more than the initial price to buy for example goat or fish in times of scarcity. Locals are not able to keep up with these increases and are forced to consume whatever they grow around their home and cannot participate in trade anymore.

Other side effects of the current situation are that salaries are not paid anymore for example to teachers or Police and militaries tending to be highly corrupt to create additional income.

Manage your risks!

In this situation, travelling is possible, but certainly you need to prepare, choose the right guide and manage your risks well. You have to respect certain rules and most importantly ensure a good organisation in advance for which you will definitely need support from a local guide.

Permits to enter certain regions and pass checkpoints on the mainland

For example, we needed tons of permits issued by the government (whoever this may be at the moment of request and use) to pass the numerous military checkpoints on mainland Yemen, enter certain areas, cross district borders, carey weapons, travel between mainland Yemen and Socotra island... These permits have to be accompanied by additional "prepayments" and hours of phone calls to each and every checkpoint the night before crossing. 

In addition, in mainland Yemen armed escorts were necessary for certain areas and our guides were carrying weapons (which require special permits, only granted if you accompany tourists). Honestly, I did not feel unsafe at any point of time!!! Bahnhofsviertel in Frankfurt is much worse!

Those guns became such a normal part of our journey and showed up always at the most random places!!

As I said, there are no active fights ongoing. Kidnapping also became very rare and usually doesn't occur ad-hoc on random tourists but rather on foreigners staying longtime in Yemen, also I did not hear about any cases of raping or robbing. However, I believe that the escort is a preventive measure to demonstrate power, earn some money and of course keep any potential bad minded person away from us. The escort guys were very friendly, caring and attentive by the way!

Look, our escort service! Super kind, attentive and caring!

During our stops, we drank coconuts together or stopped to dance together on the street in the middle of nowhere! They would borrow us charging cables or even their phones with local music! What a service! Please, don't try to ask western police / armed forces to borrow you a charging cable or dance with you on the street during the next traffic control :S

Another preventive measure to manage risks in mainland Yemen was to blend into locals and wear the black abbaya with hijab and niqab - meaning to veil entirely in black except the eyes! It might surprise you, but I loved it!!! At the one hand, it really gives you the ability to put yourself closer to the situation of local women, you will be treated like them and not like a rich western tourist. In addition, I felt very hugged and protected and cozy under my veil. Not that there was any danger, but it's fun to hide away and observe everything around you without being observed yourself - it's like the superpower of invisibility! You become a ghost!!! That doesn't mean that people start treating you like a ghost (in-existing) - they treat you with the highest respect whenever you approach them or need help. I personally felt that women are of the highest value, treated like diamonds! You're carefully wrapped and protected if you leave the house, while you would get whatever you want and whatever you say is taken utmost seriously! In Restaurants we would be granted a separate private room so that we won't be bothered by the noisy stinky men around us, in the airport women immediately were offered their own sitting area, boarding first, women never have to deal with annoying stuff, they can always send their men or children, very often we are not being controlled in the checkpoints in order to not bother us... It has many advantages!

Sometimes I was wondering how I was ever able to survive by myself in Frankfurt where I have to take care so much more about myself :D well, I guess it's a situational role which assumed under my black ghost dress! But of course, I am very aware that I am in a super luxury position where I am free to decide to leave the country and this role at any time - not like local women. Anyhow, I have to refine my understanding of women and Islam after this experience. While in Europe many people are convinced that the abbaya is to penalize, exclude and suppress women, which may exist in rare cases, this is really the least thing I have felt in Yemen and Algeria!!!

Long intro, but I believe it is necessary, since I received many question on these topics! Now let's check out the itinerary and start driving through the spectacular Canyons and historical villages of Hadhramaut on mainland Yemen! My trip to Socotra (1st week), you will find in a separate blog post!

• 1-2 Flying in from Cairo via Aden to Socotra and exploring the island for the first week
• 3-6 travelling through mainland Yemen (South), Hadhramaut Region for the second week.

Hadhramaut is based in the South of Yemen, with access to the sea and famous green valleys inland. This combination enables to ship the agricultural goods and establish close trade relationships with surrounding countries. Hence, Hadhramaut is a comparably rich region in Yemen. We started our itinerary at the port village Al-Mukalla, driving up north into Wadi Doan and finishing with the Manhattan of the Desert - Shibam - further north in Hadhramaut. I was excited to learn that this route is similar to Freya Stark's discovery tour through Yemen in 1934, a very impressive female solo traveler in old times, that I highly admire. If you want to know more about her adventures, I highly recommend to have a look into her book!

Al-Mukalla

After Abbaya shopping and equipping ourselves with the appropriate black fashion gear as well as getting some black charcoal to use like locals for eye make-up, we went for a little walk through the market and along the corniche. Strolling around Al-Mukalla during sunset offers a beautiful view over the coastline and the promenade with richly decorated old houses, influenced by Indian architecture. It used to be a rich and important trade center, however, nowadays many houses are abandoned or already collapsed. What a shame!

Wadi Doan

The road to Wadi Doan was in a surprisingly good condition, paved and even with some recreation areas to stop for food and bathrooms! During one of the stops (well surrounded by our armed friends), we experienced a strange scenario: a camel with funny witch-hat-like blindfolds over its eyes walking around circles. Make a guess, what could that be?

It's the local sesame oil production! The camel is actually moving a mill to grind the seeds, so that the outcome will be liquid golden oil:

 

Filling the sesame oil for selling at the little stalls besides the highway

Numerous military checkpoints later (forgive me that I didn't take pictures, but I really didn't want to end up in a Yemeni prison!), driving around monotone, dry, grey, flat sandy stone plateaus, we finally arrived in Wadi Doan. Oh, what a breathtaking view into the valley waited for us in the afternoon light!!!

Surprise, surprise, this is the view from the infinity pool of our hotel! I was speechless! Certainly didn't expect such an accommodation in Yemen, and especially not after 1 week basic camping in Socotra!

Wadi Doan is a canyon, surrounded by a high mountain plateau, with green rivers and oasis in its heart and beautiful, historic mud brick villages with painted houses hiding into the canyon walls. Traditionally, some of the houses and palaces are richly painted, which make them look like from a Disney fairy tale! 

A view to the new Bokshan palace. Bokshan family is one of the most influential families in the valley!

Old Bokshan palace, which was transformed into a hotel, but is now abandoned unfortunately. I would definitely offer myself selfish-less to use it as my new princess castle!!

Many villages are already abandoned, not collapsing though! While many Yemeni families from Hadhramaut were moving their lifes to Saudi Arabia for economic reasons in the past 50 years, I was surprised to see, that they are mostly still taking care of maintaining the precious houses! And this is not an easy job! Mud brick houses have to be renewed every 2-5 years, since the rain would wash off the walls and especially the paint!

People are mainly living from agriculture, growing crops, dates and keeping sheep and goats. Also women participate in the agricultural production! They are especially responsible for taking care of the sheep herds. And no, if you spot such a creature, it's not a Disney witch! It's the traditional outfit for shepherds in the region! The height of the hat is supposed to keep fresh air inside and cool down the head. While red colour on its top means "married", white colour shows that the shephard is still single! Analogue dating at its best!!

In most cases, local women do not want to appear in pictures. That's why she simply handed me the hat to pretend I'm a Hadhramauti shepherd myself and take a picture! Did you recognize me??

The wonder of Shibam

Shibam, the Manhatten of the desert!! Long before people even thought about New York or Manhatten, Yemenis created the first known high rise buildings of the world in the 16th century! Constructed entirely of mud bricks, they would reach up to 9 levels! 

Equipped with ancient air conditioning technologies made of smart wind channels and water, they are quite high-tech! In addition, they had clever solutions for door bells to see if a male or female was in front, so that the respective person was sent to open and welcome the visitor. 

Walking through the streets of Shibam, I felt reverent and small! How did these simple people in ancient times manage to create such wonders? If I even try to build a sand castle, it collapses already after 5min! 

In the small alleys, we would encounter little herds of sheeps, donkeys chilling in the shadow, black veiled women hiding around the corner of the cool mud brick houses, hearing no noises than the chicken and goats in the courts and smelling everywhere the delicious and mysterious smell of incense! It's such a special, peaceful, special, dignified and ancient atmosphere!!

Seiyun and Tarim

The cities are not as pretty as the villages from the Wadi and not as impressive as Shibam, but have some pretty palaces and buildings, as well as nice markets, where they sell delicious, local and fresh vegetables and fruits, as well as traditional perfumes produced in the region. Shoppiiinnnggg!!!!!

The highest tower of a mosque, entirely constructed of mud bricks!

 

More Disney palaces

Market life - in Yemen I tasted the most delicious Mangos ever!

Local perfumery. He mixes his own scents out of the basics which you see in the back. They are very fond of special, overloaded design flasks, as you spot on the left side of the picture. I got one Rose-Oud and it's super soft, unobtrusive, but still prevalent and long lasting. I'll make you taste it when I'm back!

From Seiyun, two of us would take the flight out to Cairo, while Morgan and me took a transfer to Salalah in the south of Oman, to properly spend some girls time, relax after Yemen and celebrate my birthday! It's a 10-12h drive plus border crossing procedures. 

When we finally entered the car at 3am in the morning, which would bring us out of Yemen, we were totally in a relax mode, not prepared for any further adventures. However, I still want to share two touching impressions, that we collected during this drive, and that kept us very thoughtful for many days!

1. Driving at 3am in the morning is dark. Very dark. And usually the roads are very empty, right? In addition, maybe our driver was still asleep and so it happened that he hit a street dog with the car. His only comment was: "oh, we broke his legs" while he continued driving. My friend and me were totally shocked, as we're typically not used to break dog legs and leave. For many days we were discussing what would have been the right thing to do. Certainly there are no veterinarians who could fix it! Leaving food and water for the dog and taking him off the streets would just last for a few hours. Eventually we came to the conclusion, that the gun could have been useful for one single time! Stopping and ending the dog's life quickly without pain with a bullets would have definitely saved him suffering! Next time we'll be prepared for such a situation!! What's your opinion?

2. After some hours we stopped in the middle of nowhere in a little village for fuelling. There was just flat, infinite stone desert around the village, nothing else, quite triste. And when er looked out of the window at the petrol station, we spotted very hidden in the shadow, wrapped in dirty, torn rags, a human being. It was even hard to recognize if it was humen, not to speak if it was a female or male being, old or young! Our driver said it's a Somali refugee. What a shocking fact, that people are willing to flee to the remotest desert in Yemen! You can't even imagine how bad their situation in the home country must be!!!! We decided spontaneously to leave some food and water for the person and when we placed it in front of her, there was not a single movement or emotion. The person looked so given up and resigned! As if she finished already with life deep inside. That was a touching encounter and went under our skin. Again, for days we were thinking what else we could have done. And as silly as it sounds, we both had the impression that we should have hugged this forgotten human being! I can't even explain why, but maybe to give that person human contact? She seemed so entirely excluded from life, forgotten by the world, left alone with almost 0% chances to survive somehow.... Again, how would you react?

And with these strong emotions, our Yemen trip ended and the following days were contrastfully filled with a luxury resort and drinks in the pool at the probably safest place in earth, Oman. 

But on this blog, the Yemen adventure isn't over yet! Make sure to read Yemen #2 and follow me through my first week on the breathtaking island Socotra!!! I promise, it is much less adventurous and touching, but still - amaaaaazingggggg!!

Let me know which impression you gained after my short insight and it would be super interesting for me to learn in how far it changed your perception of Yemen!! This would be my biggest joy to hear from you!!

Love and hugs, حب وسلام 

Petra بترا

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